But what is it that ‘something special’ that makes ‘iconic jewels’? David Warren, the international specialist for Christies does not mince words when he details the qualities that he seeks “It’s very rare to find ‘living legends’. From a plethora of talent we look for that rare quality that has the making of masterpieces’. Its not just about beauty, it’s about functionality and wearability of the piece. Its most certainly about quality and the number of editions developed- the exclusivity is important too.”

JAR’s simple flower on a jet black board was his insignia; workings well as a marketing strategy. His use of rare uncut diamonds, often hundreds of years old, worked in silver antique frames often using unique semi precious stones to create butterflies, orchids or extremely elegant cocktail pieces is just part of this maestro’s endless repertoire. His finesse of finish makes this mysterious jeweler, scale beyond his Place Vendome address into everyone’s heart-as the most popular and most celebrated jeweler of all times.

A point Christie’s jewelry specialist David Warren concedes to when he articulates “I would say YES, to any JAR piece. He is the modern day equivalent of Faberge.” Not on whim, but on the affinity that JAR feels with a client that he ‘accepts’ the commission. It seems only natural of a jeweler who sculpts out from his source; his combination of colors complimenting his creativity. The preciousness of his piece was not dependent on the metal or stone; he works with wood, aluminum, gold and silver –an alchemist who defines by sheer design.

With 100-odd pieces designed by this master, I wondered why Dubai will not see any of his works. “Sadly there are no pieces that have come up for sales after the last auction” Warren said. He pointed me out to other iconic jewelers. Indian Viren Bhagat, whose record sales at every Christies auction (the last closing at 1 Million Dollars) is due to beauty of his pieces, rooted in traditionalism; his vision sets trends. Warren explains “It’s his use of rare stones, his accent on mogul motifs yet he is extremely contemporary, he is a rare find.”