Earlier it was only about antique jewels. Provenance added the final quotient of prestige that ‘sold’ auction jewels to potential buyers. This was even more important than the reputed auction house’s ‘guarantee of quality and price’. The prices of such items have only been rising in price and some of the finest pieces have changed several hands and over time, the supply source has dwindled and there was not enough to send the registers ringing.

This has seen major auction-houses worked at developing ‘iconic and inspirational’ contemporary jewelers who are ensconced into the haloed circle of ‘living legends’. Jewelers, who design in ‘single editions’, whose works resonate a universal culture, who display a great deal of courage as they showcase through auction houses. There designs have the ability of appeasing international sensibility. Non-competitive to their existing auction podiums to the “old and famous", these modern mavericks add something extraordinary and as the NYC auction proved, they can out-sell any royal piece.

Where art fuses with quality, precious stones meshed with detail and finesse something extraordinary is borne. Auction houses will gladly take such pieces and make fresh measures in terms of serious stones and reputable names. We ask, do younger names at these auctions, contaminate the seriousness with their rebellious spirit? Au Contraire ! The leader of this revolution was Paris based jeweler Joel Autur Rosenthal or JAR. 1980s saw him set a trend, based not just on his own signature style but his extremely reclusive marketing strategy.